Christchurch used to be a jewel of a city. With its cathedral and the river running through it, it echoed English cities like Bath or Chichester. Then the earthquakes hit, flattening it and killing almost 300 people. Even five years later the wounds are clearly visible. We used it as a staging post to pick up the Mighty Chariot. Leaving early in the morning (around tennish), we pointed the car at the distant mountains and headed towards the high country. I was doing the driving, so I didn’t get as many pictures as Other People.
Driving to the mountains is odd. You can see them from hundreds of kilometers away, and you seem to spend hours without getting any closer. Then you come around a corner and suddenly MOUNTAIN!
About two-thirds of the way to our destination we came to the mountain lakes, Tekapo and Pukaki.
The lakes are an incredible vivid blue. It’s caused by microscopic rock particles suspended in the water, called ‘glacial flour’.
We stood on the south shore of Lake Pukaki. Looking north the distant view was shrouded in clouds. Weather changes fast in the mountains, and soon we saw something looming out above the clouds. A quick check of the map showed us we were seeing Aoraki/Mt Cook emerging from the clouds. It’s the highest mountain in New Zealand at a around 12,300ft. It’s impossible to communicate the emotional impact from seeing a mountain at this scale. It was clearly much larger then the other mountains around the lake, in a different class altogether. What astonishes me is the way it imposes itself on the scenery even when it is 70km away. The pictures can’t capture the intensity of the impression it makes.
The lake levels vary as the snow melts and the water is used for the hydro power stations. Sometimes a plane finds itself in the wrong place.
It’s rocky terrain, what with it being in the actual mountains. Where there are rocks, there shall be idiots standing on top of them. Me, in this case.
A short drive later we arrived at Merino Lodge, an exclusive location run by Anne, a farmer. She’s not farming any land any more, so she runs the lodge to keep busy. It’s an utterly wonderful place. We had a fantastic couple of days there, which I shall post about later.
Day Two of the Epic New Zealand Adventure started with bacon, because jet lag (yes, I know it’s only a three-hour difference but you have to get up really, really early. It hurts.) Suitably restored we strolled down to the ferry terminal and completely screwed up our timing. Left with 30 minutes to wait before our ferry we went looking for seagulls. We didn’t have to look very hard.
On the ferry for the 10-minute trip to Devonport I managed to elbow my way to the rail to grab this shot of an America’s Cup yacht hammering to windward under reefed main in a strong breeze. They cram about 20 guests on these amazing boats. It doesn’t look much fun.
There’s a lovely walk along the windy Devonport shoreline where you can see lots of seagulls. Look, I warned you about this. Seagulls are awesome and I will photograph them and post the pictures here and you can’t actually stop me.
You’ll see that the rocks a are luscious deep volcanic black. That’s because Auckland is built in a somewhat dormant volcanic caldera. The Maori have legends about the last major eruption, over 600 years ago. If the same thing happened now it would blow out several suburbs. It will happen again. Auckland government have an entire set of management and evacuation plans for various scales of volcanic catastrophe, up to a complete permanent abandonment of the largest city in the country. More likely we’ll lose a suburb or two every few centuries, which is pretty good odds really. Anyway. More seabirds.
Now for something completely different. A Herring. No! Sorry. Belay that. Not a herring. A Heron.
And now, an Oystercatcher. This is a Variable Oystercatcher, so named because different individuals have different frontal colouring. This one is completely black.
With that, we pottered back across the harbour and caught a flight to Christchurch.
We flew (business class, natch) across the Tasman to Auckland. For some reason, arriving in the City of Sails always feels like coming home. I think it’s because it’s functionally Plymouth on the Pacific. The seaport is right in the city centre. Just across the water is a town called Devonport which is home to the Royal New Zealand Navy. The harbour and Hauraki Gulf define the city. There’s the wonderful tang of salt and seaweed in the air. Big ships manoeuvre in the harbour at all hours. The CBD is on the waterfront.
Arriving at the excellent Pullman Hotel we dropped our bags, grabbed the cameras and set off to Viaduct Harbour to catch some of the ambience and see what we could photograph. There was also some beer.
This is Auckland Sky Tower. It’s quite lovely in a domineering and slightly phallic sort of way. I’ve often tried to find out what it’s actually for, and as far as I can work out its sole purpose is to act as something tall that people can climb and then jump off. As we discovered in Queenstown, this is something of a theme in New Zealand. There seems to be a well-developed culture of inventing new and exciting ways to dodge gravity.
Not going to lie to you – expect lots of bird shots. In Auckland, that means Pacific Gulls. Huge, mean bullies, they mostly steal from the smaller Silver Gulls. Big and nasty they may be, but they are bloody beautiful. Elegant masters of air and sea, they inspire awe. Just don’t get downwind of a breeding colony.
This is the hull of one IMOCA 60 that crashed hard in the Southern Ocean and the rig of another one that crashed hard in the Southern Ocean. Not having experienced enough hard crashing in monstrous waves, freezing spray, treacherous ice and howling gales the skippers teamed up to create a single functional boat from the wreckage. Here she’s doing trials in the harbour. A couple of days later she headed down to Dunedin to re-start the project of crashing hard in one of the world’s toughest places, thousands of miles from help. One has to admire this sort of attitude, in a slightly horrified way. There are many activities that are similarly dangerous that would be labeled ‘self-destructive behaviour’ by the medical profession. There are pills you can take, I believe. Lovely boat, though.
If you didn’t want seagulls, you should have gone to another blog.
Then we went to the Northern Steamship Company for beer. The jet-lag was cutting in.
A cruise around the pristine Lake Wakatipu in the pure, clear air of the Southern Alps aboard the coal-burning, fume-spewing TSS Earlshaw.
She’s a lovely old railway steamer with twin triple-expansion steam engines powered by a pair of manually-stoked coal-fired boilers. The engines are fairly advanced for their era, with jet condenser steam scavenging.
Built in Dunedin in 1912, then dismantled and over landed to a Queenstown, she’s been belching filth into the clean air for over a century.
It’s 120km from Te Anau to Milford Sound. For the first 50km the road follows the lake through farmland. It’s normal, everyday gorgeous. Once you leave the lake behind the road starts to climb. Soon, the terrain goes from ‘Gorgeous’ to ‘Utterly Mind-blowing.”
There’s not much of that in this post. Mountains will come later.
First, a glimpse of mountains to come. There are some shallow lakes in the flat glacial valley floor called the Mirror Lakes. Here’s why:
Jumping to the other end of the journey, the cruise boats do a loop from the head of the sound (actually a fjord) out to the Tasman and back. Here’s the view of the sound from the sea:
Next: Dolphins! We were fortunate to run into a pod of 12-15 Bottlenose Dolphins happily messing about and hunting in a fairly desultory way.
Finally, these NZ Fur Seals were having a tough day on the rock. These are young males who haven’t established a territory, so they while away their days goofing with their mates, snoozing on the Team Rock and doing a bit of fishing. Life is tough.
Native New Zealand birds have no natural predators. This leads to some very interesting behaviour. As you stroll through a forest, the birds will come and check you out. “What are you, and what are you doing in my territory?” Once they’ve decided you’re not very interesting they will get on with their normal activity.
We were exploring the forests at Cascade Creek and Lake Gunn when we almost trod on a South Island Robin (Petroica australis.) After giving us the once-over, it carried on with its search for interesting and tasty bugs. After a few minutes, another one arrived. I think this is a male/female pair. They mate for life. It might have been a parent/fledgling relationship.